Slow Boat
The slow boat is a great way to experience life along the Mekong River and will be an unforgettable experience. It is a very relaxed way to spend a few days. There are a number of tours from Chiang Mai or Chiang Rai to get you to Luang Prabang or you can do the journey on your own. This is a very popular backpacker route and you will not be disappointed by this unique experience.
timing
You will need to devote three days for this journey. One day to get to the Thailand border town and then 2 days on the slow boat to get to Luang Prabang. You will have to overnight in Pakbeng between the two days of being on the slowboat.
tips for taking the slow boat
Make sure to have handy: sunscreen, sunglasses, toilet paper, hand sanitizer, snacks, drinks, money (you can purchase snacks and drinks on board too), some form of entertainment (book, journal, camera, battery pack, phone). Get to the boat early to claim your seat in general the front will be less noisy, and one side will get a significant amount of more sun depending on the direction the boat and the sun.
Our journey and what we learned
Day One: Chiang Mai to Chiang Khong
It was New Years Day, and we were off on our journey from Chiang Mai in Thailand to Luang Prabang in Laos. We booked a tour that included transport to the border, hostel accommodation at the border, a meal each day on the slow boat, and the slow boat ticket for each day. It did not include the accommodation in the town of Pakbeng or transportation into Luang Prabang at the end of the slow boat stop.
We started on the transport van that was to bring us from Chiang Mai to the border town of Chiang Khong through Chiang Rai so we could see the White Temple. What an experience this was. It was raining and the driver went very fast. We passed by multiple vehicles in ditches and when the driver exclaimed that those vehicles were in the ditch from “driving too slowly”. We white knuckled our way to a stop for lunch and offered up our front row seats to the other passengers, but did not get any takers. We were lucky enough to see the White Temple but due to poor road conditions and delays we did not have sufficient time to get into the temple to explore. I think if you would like to really experience this temple I would go to Chiang Rai and spend a night and go early to avoid the crowds and get to really explore it. Even from outside it was stunningly beautiful. After this brief stop, we boarded back into the death vehicle and headed our way to the border town of Chiang Khong. This little town literally only is used for travelers doing the slow boat. The day before we left for this town, we went all over Chiang Mai to get passport photos made as this is a requirement for passing into Laos. Comes to find out that this town is very much prepared for this since it is a border town and multiple people on our tour were not even aware, they needed a passport photo and were able to get one when we arrived it town. Thankfully the rest of the journey was much calmer. The slow boat was just what we needed after that terrifying drive.
Day Two: Crossing the border and Slow Boat to Pakbeng
To cross the border, you need to get to immigration offices and then after exiting Thailand you have to take a bus ride across the Thai-Lao Friendship Bridge and then go through the Laos immigration. You pay for your visa and make sure to have a new passport photo. There are ATMs there to get Lao money which you will need for your hotel in Pakbeng and for purchasing snacks and dinner. After you get your visa you will need to get transport to Huay Xai where you will catch the slow boat. Make sure to load up on some snacks, books, activities to do and make sure your camera/cellphone is fully charged for pictures you will want to take along the way. If you are joining a tour to get to Luang Prabang you may have the option to take a bus from Laos border town to Luang Prabang rather than the slow boat because it will cut off an extra day. On our bus only one person elected to do that. It was sort of crazy leaving just this one guy in middle of nowhere while we all headed to the boats. I think if you can swing the extra day doing the slow boat is totally worth it. It is more of an experience than simply a mode of transportation between the countries.
The boat ride is what you make of it. If you want to party and drink you can do that. If you want to relax and read that is fine too. You will likely be on the boat today for about 7-8 hours. It is a very social experience as you will meet other travelers on the same journey. This evening you will arrive in a small town called Pakbeng. It is a free for all scrambling to get a hostel. Almost no one books in advance, but I am sure you can if that makes you feel more comfortable but likely that will be more expensive and is not necessary. There are also plenty of restaurants in town to have dinner.
Day Three: Pakbeng to Luang Prabang
The next day you get up early and grab additional snacks and drinks and head to dock to board the boats again. Prepare yourself for another 7-8 hours on the boat as you make your way to Luang Prabang. The boat drops you about 10 km from town. You will have to get a tuk-tuk from here, but you will have to haggle. If no one is willing you can walk down the dirt road to the main road and likely will get ride for half the price. That is what we did with a handful of other people.
highlights of the slow boat
We were so lucky we saw an elephant on the side of the river. We also got to experience farmers rescuing a calf and its mother. We got to see the local with the fisherman, farmers, and amazing villages. You really get to soak in the experience of local life along the Mekong River. Also, you get to meet likeminded travelers.
The slow boat is a great way to experience life along the Mekong River and will be an unforgettable experience. It is a very relaxed way to spend a few days. If you have the time you won’t regret it!
